About tree seeds and bonsai seeds germination instructions

About Basic Care of Seeds

It is important to maintain the freshness of the seeds in order to facilitate proper germination. This is why we store all of our seeds in a refrigerator dedicated for this purpose. Therefore, in order to preserve their freshness until you are ready to begin the germination process, you can store the purchased seeds in the plastic bag we have provided. You can place the seeds in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator.

About Germination Instructions

Once you are ready to germinate your seeds, you have two (2) germination methods: natural germination or forced germination.

Natural germination: Sow seeds outside in autumn. Overwintering the seeds will accomplish all the necessary natural processes seeds require to germinate. Next spring, you should have sprouted seeds.

With forced germination, you are accomplishing the germination process artificially. Therefore, you will need to follow the steps listed below. Each seed is different. However most of them require three (3) steps. Some may require more while others may require less. These steps are: the scarification, the stratification and sowing.

1 - Scarification

Each seed has a shell around the live inner part. Some are harder than others. The goal of the scarification process is to soften the shell and allow water to reach the inner part of the seed. You will scarify the seeds by placing them in water, usually a glass or a bowl, for a period of twenty four (24) to forty eight (48) hours. The norm appears to be the use of warm water. Some seeds require boiling water while others require water at room temperature. Normally, the viable seeds will drown after the twenty four (24) hour period while others will float on top. If there are still seeds floating after the forty eight (48) hour period, you can discard them as they are empty seeds. Once completed, you are ready to begin the next step ( please note that some seeds require you to proceed directly to the third step).

2 - Cold Stratification

The next step is the cold stratification period. This step is where all the magic of nature occurs. In nature, most of the seeds fall from the trees in autumn. Consequently, seeds spend the winter period under colder temperature permitting the chemical in the seeds to develop and trigger the germination process once the ideal temperature is reached in spring. In the forced germination process, you attempt to recreate the winter period. In order to accomplish this process, use the following materials:

Plastic Ziplock bag
Paper towel
Water

Fold the paper towel in two and moisten with water. It should not be dripping wet but humid. Place your seeds on the humid paper towel and fold it over the seeds. Place the paper towel with the seeds in the ziplock plastic bag and store them in your refrigerator for a period varying from thirty (30) to one hundred and twenty (120) days. We suggest that you check your seeds every thirty (30) days in order to prevent rot and allow for proper air circulation. You will also check for germinated seeds. If this is the case, take the germinated seeds and proceed to the next step. If not, wait the required period and then proceed to the next step.

3 - Sowing
Sowing can be accomplished in the ground or in a pot. You can use any soil suitable for planting and growing. Make a small opening in the soil (approximately half (1/2) an inch deep), place the seed in the opening and cover it with a few millimetres of soil. Keep the soil moist.

Extra steps for certain species

If you choose to germinate your seeds via the forced germination process, you may be required to follow this extra step. This step takes place prior to the cold stratification. All you have to do is expose the seeds to ambient room temperature for thirty (30) to ninety (90) days. This is called heat stratification and is accomplished by leaving the seeds exposed in a plate on your desk. After you have achieved this step, you resume with cold stratification.

The Elegant Japanese Maple Bonsai

If you are creative, growing the Japanese Maple Bonsai is a great way to make use of your creativity. When growing the Bonsai Tree, you have a variety of choices. The best choice for those who are just beginning to get into this hobby is the Japanese Maple Bonsai.

The Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is one of the most beautiful and elegant of the Bonsai Trees, and it is easy to grow and hardy. The official name for the beautiful Japanese Maple is Acer Palmatum. This species really is a great first choice for a Bonsai Tree.
The typical outdoor maple grows to be very tall, but when pruned properly they make a great Bonsai Tree.

If you are going to buy a Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree, it is best to purchase one that has a trunk of at least four inches in diameter. With this starter, you can train the tree in a variety of different styles. You may also want to go with the Apex or Taper styles. If this were the case, you would need a Japanese Maple Bonsai that has one to two trunk chops.
Some great advantages to the Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is that it is one of the more affordable Bonsai Trees, and this tree displays a magnificent array of red and purple foliage during the spring. This type of Bonsai Tree can either be grown from a seed, or you may also choose to buy a starter that is around 4 – 6 inches in height.

In addition to the indoor Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree, there is also a larger variety that may be used for an outdoor garden. One of the best things about this type of Bonsai Tree is that the color of the leaves change frequently providing colorful and elegant beauty to your garden, indoors or out.

In the spring, the Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree has leaves that are bright red in color, but as they mature, they turn pink. During the summer the leaves take on a green color with pink tinges, and in the fall months the edges of the leaves turn a dark pink-red color that soon spreads to the whole leaf. When all the leaves have changed, the Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is solid scarlet, a really superb tree.
The Japanese Maple Bonsai Tree is a great way to start your Bonsai tree collection; its not only one of the easiest, but one of the most beautiful as well.

Selecting The Right Bonsai Pots Is Very Important

As with all types of plant pots, Bonsai pots are available in a huge array of sizes, shapes and colours but making sure you select the correct pot for your Bonsai tree can make the difference between a good looking Bonsai and an incredible looking Bonsai. Be warned, though, the pot you pick can have either positive or detrimental effects to the growth of your beloved Bonsai tree.

What type of Bonsai pots should I be considering?

Firstly, if you have a juvenile Bonsai that is still growing quite rapidly you will need to consider several training pots before you decide on a final show pot to exhibit your Bonsai. However, when selecting a Bonsai pot you should never pick one that means you will need to drastically trim the roots. If you do want to reduce the size of your pot or the roots then you need to take it in gradual steps, moving down a pot size at a time before eventually reaching the size you want.

Make sure the pot you are considering has very good drainage and is entirely frost proof, this will help keep your Bonsai safe and healthy all year round whether it is kept indoors or outdoors. If you are selecting a glazed pot, be sure that only the outside of the pot is actually glazed, because the Bonsai will need the rough surface on the inside for the roots to grab onto and establish themselves.

What pot for what tree?

The type of pot you should buy is indicated by the kind of tree you are growing as well as the style you want. Conifers lend themselves brilliantly to naturally coloured, unglazed pots whereas deciduous trees look good in glazed or unglazed and in just about any colours. Experiment a little to find the right pot for you, and especially consider pastel colours for your deciduous trees or a bright coloured pot for a flowering tree.

Also, consider how much room the roots will need for your particular choice of tree. Cascading trees will require a deep pot with plenty of room for the roots to grow down but also so the branches can hang over the side without draping on the floor.

If you have a heavily glazed pot, remember that the colour of the glaze will age and ware off slightly over it’s lifetime and many people wipe the glaze with French polish in order to speed the process up giving your glazed pot a slightly more natural and aged feel.

Bonsai Trees / Plants and Shops

My Bonsai adapts within two days to changes in positions of light (the stalk/branches always bend towards the light for efficient photosynthesis - and growth)
My bonsai also has some arial roots and completely holds all the soil in its tiny pot, it grows incredibly quickly and can be cut into shapes by cutting the branch with scissors just below a new leaf.
I mentioned earlier how a mini tree facinates me, as tree's provide massive amounts of biodiversity. I actually once found two mini snails living in the soil around my bonsai tree! and there is always moss and certain fungi that grow around the bark (not because i overwater the plant!) I have re planted cuttings which sucesfully grow, now my pot looks beautiful with mini 'poles' growing around my tree(poles being the cut branches) Trees are great for rooms as they not only make the room more attractive but provide plenty of oxygen when photosynthesising. As Bonsai are so precious people use special soils information of which can be seen here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonsai
However I used natural soil from my garden and my bonsai is thriving, Bonsai are tree's that are dwarf so are strong and able to survive more extreme conditons than plants would, due to their transpiration stream to cool themselves in hot weather it is important they are watered and the bark should not dry out.
In summer you can keep the bonsai in the garden, I did this growth was very rapid, but the soil dried very quickly and often the leaves would appear to burn and die quicker. According to instrucions, bonsai should be kept away from direct sunlight and extreme heat, they are indoor plants.

I strongly recommend any Botanist or plant fan like myself to get a bonsai tree, theyre amazing, you'll have fun cutting them into shapes etc.

Starting your Bonsai Growing Project.

The very first thing you will need to consider when starting to grow your own indoor bonsai trees is to select the species of trees that you will use. Selecting trees for use as bonsai plants will require some considerations of geographical location and climate in the locale, as weather conditions in each location is different from others and hence you will need to choose trees that are either local to your location or are easily adaptable to the conditions in your area. The best results are normally seen when you use plants or trees that are endemic to your location. The choice of exotic species may result in trees not able to grow properly due to not being able to adjust to the conditions in your area, although this is not always the case. You should wait until you are totally familiar and an expert before you consider introducing exotic species of plants for your bonsai growing projects.

Among other things to consider when growing your bonsai trees is the size of the tree you you intend to grow. Trees come in different sizes in nature and this is the same for bonsai trees. You may want to consider where in your house you will be placing the plant and you should decide how big of a plant should be in that place. Once you have a basic idea of how big or small you want your bonsai tree to be, you can then go to a nursery or bonsai specialty shop and find a tree that is suitable. However, if a nursery or bonsai shop is not available in your area, you may just have to start from scratch and plant your tree from seeds. This will give you the choice of find the seeds for the tree you like the best and start off from there.

Should you start off from seeds then you will need to plant them in seed bags until they become seedlings. As soon as the seedlings start to grow, you will need to start preparing your seedlings to be transferred to pots. Transferring the seedlings into pots is tricky at times, and you will have to remove most of the roots to fit in smaller pots. When cutting away roots, like in all plants you will have to be very careful as this effort can cause the plants to die. When you start the process of transferring your bonsai plant into its pot, you will also need to place some wires into the root system of the plant in order to help it fit into its pot. You will then need to ensure that you put just enough soil to cover your bonsai plants roots which will help it retain moisture. Make sure that the right amount of soil is place over the roots and not too much.

Bonsai are not genetically dwarfed plants. They are created from nearly any tree or shrub species and remain small through pot confinement and crown and root pruning. Nearly any tree or shrub species, with proper training and care can be used to create Bonsai, but some specific species are more sought after for use as bonsai material. This is because they have characteristics that make them appropriate for the smaller design arrangements of bonsai. There are many different ways to acquire, cultivate and grow Bonsai. Several of the most common include:
    * Growing Bonsai from Seed
    * Cuttings
    * Air layering
    * Grafting

Bonsai Garden at the pagoda Yunyan Ta (Cloud Rock Pagoda; Suzhou, China)
Bonsai Garden at the pagoda Yunyan Ta (Cloud Rock Pagoda; Suzhou, China)
Bonsai Trees showing a variety of different styles in Sydney, Australia.
Bonsai Trees showing a variety of different styles in Sydney, Australia.
A Pine bonsai in the informal upright style. This tree is more than 30 years old, in the Hidden Lake Gardens Collection
A Pine bonsai in the informal upright style. This tree is more than 30 years old, in the Hidden Lake Gardens Collection

Bonsai are often characterized as being grown in one of many different bonsai styles. In English, the most common styles include: formal upright, slant, informal upright, cascade, semi-cascade, raft, literati, and group / forest.

    * The formal upright style, or Chokkan,
    * Slant style, or Shakan bonsai possess straight trunks
    * Cascade style, or Kengai bonsai
    * Raft style, or Netsunari bonsai mimic
    * The literati style  (Bunjin is a translation of the Chinese word wenren meaning "scholars practiced in the arts" and gi is a derivative of the Japanese word, ki, for "tree").
    * The group or forest style, or Yose Ue,
    * The root over rock style, or Sekijoju,
    * The broom style, or Hokidachi
    * The multi Trunk style, or Ikadabuki
    * The growing in a rock, or Ishizuke

Bonsai Trees

What are Bonsai trees?

Many people think of tiny little Japanese trees cut and pruned to a miniature size but literally speaking Bonsai means ‘plant in a tray’ and while they are smaller than their wild counterparts they don’t have to be a couple of inches tall; they can be grown in a pot in the garden and will be smaller than their wild counterparts.

Misconceptions about Bonsai trees.

Many people believe that training Bonsai trees is a cruel pastime because the cultivator starves the tree and cuts it to such an extent that it becomes unhealthy. Quite the reverse is usually true; while they are cut and pruned quite heavily to keep them to the size of the pot, they are usually transferred from pot to pot regularly and are fed and watered much more often than their wild cousins.

Contrary to belief, Bonsai trees do not originate from Japan, but there are records dating back more than 2000 years that show Bonsai being grown in China. These Bonsai weren’t as small as the Bonsai that people often envisage and were grown on an individual basis outdoors in pots. It was, though, the Japanese that took this art form and progressed it to the level it is at now. This has led to quite different styles in Japanese and Chinese Bonsai; the Chinese Bonsai being much more freestyle and more lightly pruned than the Japanese miniature Bonsai that are very heavily groomed and pruned and look much more like miniature natural versions of the full sized versions.

Bonsai trees do not live shorter lives than wild trees. They regularly live for many centuries and are traditionally passed down from generation to generation of family. They lead nearly exactly the same length lives as their wild cousins and are often much healthier because of the attention they receive.

The advantages of growing Bonsai.

Not everyone has a large garden where they can plant numerous trees and let them grow as big as they want, and even those who do have large gardens still need to wait for many years before the tree becomes truly established. By growing Bonsai you don’t need any more room than the size of your pot and because you only need them to grow to much smaller proportions it really is accessible for anyone who is interested in growing Bonsai trees. You can even grow them inside if you can recreate the correct conditions for the tree you want to grow.

Growing Bonsai trees can fast become an addictive hobby and requires attention to detail, foresight of how the tree will grow and plenty of time and care. You will undoubtedly feel massive satisfaction if you decide to grow Bonsai and are any good at it.

Bonsai Soil And Additives

Should I use a special Bonsai soil or just normal soil?

The increased popularity of growing Bonsai trees and plants has brought with it many more specialist shops; the Internet being virtually awash with Bonsai supplies. As a beginner, it is usual for people to go out and buy everything they think they could possibly want to ever grow a Bonsai. However, there is a good chance you may not need it. You can buy Bonsai soil at very reasonable prices now, and this soil is mixed to a perfect combination of nutrients, soil and grit that will help your Bonsai grow, but many practitioners of the ancient art of Bonsai would probably consider this cheating.

As a beginner, it is important that you do what you can to make your first Bonsai as successful as possible. Many people will throw in the towel after just one failure, and when you consider how long a Bonsai can take to reach maturity this really isn’t an overnight hobby. You must get into a regime of regular watering, annual potting and plenty of care and attention in order to be able to enjoy a beautiful Bonsai for your troubles.

Is Bonsai soil expensive?

Bonsai soil shouldn’t be costing you very much more than normal potting compost or bags of nutrient rich soil that you use in your garden. A good Bonsai soil, however, may contain a long list of ingredients including clay, soil and even bark. Some of these ingredients are loaded with the nutrients that your Bonsai will thrive on, and paying that little extra can certainly promote good healthy growth from your beloved project.

Whether you decide you want to use bags of Bonsai soil or make your own soil there are certain things you need to make sure of before planting your Bonsai in the soil. A good Bonsai soil needs to have excellent drainage to make sure the water can seep to the roots and out of the bottom of the soil and through the holes in your pot. It is a good idea to have two different soils, one coarser than the other. This way, the screened soil acts as a sort of irrigation for your plants.

As well as this, you may want to consider buying nutrient supplements that you can add when repotting or mix with the soil that you use. However, if you are growing your Bonsai in a suitable area this isn’t always needed.

Bonsai Plant Care

Bonsai plants are very similar to Bonsai trees in so far as if you give them a lot of care and attention and keep them healthy you will get a beautiful miniature plant in return. There are many different varieties of plant that you can use to create Bonsai plants. Some plants require very precise care routines to maintain a healthy and aesthetically pleasing plant, but regardless of what breed of plant you are using there are some basic guidelines to follow that will keep your plant in condition. All of these tips will be dependant on the type of plant you buy but are meant as rough guides only.

Temperature.

Indoor Bonsai plants will need protection from the elements during cold weather because many of them are tropical or subtropical plants. The singly most effective form of protection is bringing them indoors. However, if you are planting your Bonsai outdoors you should plant them somewhere where they are protected from wintry conditions. Alternatively it does a plant a lot of good if you put them out for some warm weather when the risk of frost is gone completely. The humidity indoors can cause dehydration of Bonsai plants, which is the biggest killer of these timid plants.

Watering.

It is important to water Bonsai early in the day before the temperature lowers in the evening. The type of plant you have will determine the watering regime you need to undertake. How much moisture the plant needs is a very important factor and you should always water the soil as thoroughly as possible to ensure that all the roots get a good watering.

Light.

Because the sun is at it’s brightest and strongest between the hours of 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. you should try as far as possible to keep your Bonsai out of the sunlight between these hours. It is also important to remember that electrical items around the house give off a very humid heat that can damage not only the leaves of you Bonsai but can also dehydrate your plants or trees and eventually kill them. It’s also important to alter your watering schedule to meet the demands of increased light, heat and humidity.

Fertilizing.

You can use fertilizers to help the growth of your Bonsai plants, but it’s best to use mild ones that only contain trace elements. Trees are usually fed during the growing season to help with their growth and shouldn’t be used in either plants or trees during dormant growth periods.

Bonsai Care

What are the basics of effective Bonsai care.

Caring for your Bonsai tree involves many of the same activities associated with caring for a pot plant or an indoor plant. Well developed and healthy fibrous roots are essential for the continued good health of your Bonsai tree and repotting is an essential way to manage this process. Normally a young or fast growing Bonsai will need to be repotted roughly once a year; for less prolific growers or older trees it can be done as infrequently as once every five years. You should always try to repot during late winter or early spring when the buds start to swell.

How to repot a Bonsai tree.

The process of repotting a Bonsai tree is one that you should take seriously and follow these simple instructions:

First, you should tidy the tree by carefully pruning off any unwanted, long branches. Also, make sure the tree has been under cover for a few weeks if it is an outdoor Bonsai, this way the soil will be relatively dry. Once you remove the tree from it’s pot you will be able to see whether it really needs repotting. If it is root bound then you should repot it, however, if there are another few inches of room so the roots can grow a little longer then you can carefully replace the tree in it’s original pot and continue as normal.

You should remove surface soil from the roots either by hand or using a nylon scrubbing brush. Brush away from the trunk and be careful not to damage any of the roots. Removing the loose soil will give the Bonsai tree a healthier look and feel. Once you’ve removed most of the soil in this way, you can use a small, fine bristled paintbrush to remove the soil stuck in the roots or that has collected in the roots.

Use a Bonsai fork to comb out the roots. Do this by combing out the roots from underneath and then use scissors to prune up to a third of the roots and then cut out small wedges around the root base to allow fresh soil to collect and keep your Bonsai healthy. Add a layer of grit to the bottom of the pot and then add the Bonsai compst of your choice.

Take the time to position your Bonsai tree in the pot and then push a little more soil into awkward places. Complete this as often as you need to as mentioned above.

Bonsai - The Journey East To West

Since its beginnings in China, during the Han Dynasty over two thousand years ago, the art of growing miniature trees in containers, bonsai, has had an interesting history. Initially, penjing – as it is called in China, was considered too spiritual for the common folk and only nobles were permitted to own one. During the 14th century, the Chinese invaded Japan and brought with them many aspects of Chinese culture, including religion, calligraphy and penjing. Even today, the Japanese characters for bonsai remain the same in Chinese.

The Japanese developed and refined this art form, still remaining the privilege of the nobles. When they began to lose interest, the art form almost died out completely and was only practiced by a few people. Bonsai rose in popularity, but with the leaning towards coloured flowers and variegated leaves. The development of bonsai as we know it really began during the last century.

Although Westerners had encountered bonsai on their travels in the Far East, and a few had even written articles about them, it wasn’t until the end of WW2 that the hobby really began to catch on in the United States. GI’s returning from Japan brought with them small samples of these fascinating trees.

Many of them only survived for a short time, but there were enough people curious about bonsai to try to find out how to care for them correctly. The large Japanese-American population in the United States was the major source of information and encouragement, and for many years their knowledge and skills were in demand.

Today bonsai has become a household word. Small cuttings planted in shallow pots are sold as bonsai in department stores, garden nurseries, open air markets and even at gas stations. These are not true bonsai such as produced by artists in Western countries as well as Japan, but they are a start. They at least introduce newcomers to the idea of growing a miniaturized tree in a pot. It is then up to the individual to read books, join clubs and meet other bonsai enthusiasts in order to learn and improve their skills.

As your knowledge and enthusiasm grows, you will surely become more ambitious and begin to create your own bonsai from native plants. You will find the art of bonsai a hugely absorbing and satisfying pastime that will give years of pleasure.

Beautiful Artificial Bonsai Tree

Japanese have perfected the technique of growing miniature Artificial
Bonsai trees in containers, but many people all over the world have taken up the Bonsai cultivation as a sort of hobby. Artificial Bonsai trees are generally used for aesthetic purposes and are popular as beautiful showpieces or gifts.

Common types of Artificial Bonsai trees include plum, semi-cascade, bamboo, pine, and azalea. Modern techniques have led to five different styles of Artificial Bonsai trees which include cascade, semi-cascade, slanting, informal upright, as well as formal upright. The braided Bonsai money plant tree is one of the most popular out of devoted bonsai growers. This type of tree consists of a group of four or five trees whose trunks have been braided together. Braided Artificial Bonsai trees can be ten to eighteen inches in height, and is said to bring good fortune by Feng shui practitioners. 

Artificial Bonsai trees are usually very small with a height that varies from around two inches all the way up to three feet and the shape of Bonsai trees can be changed by wiring the branches and trunk of the tree. You can place your tree in a nice decorative container that matches your décor because they can live for literally years if you take good care of it. 

Maintaining Bonsai isn’t difficult at all. You will need a decent set of tools such as root trimmers, shears, pliers, and branch cutters if necessary. If you are a first timer you can enlist the help of a skilled professional who is willing to teach you the art of training and maintaining Bonsai.

Your plant can be trimmed using bypass pruners and the roots should be trimmed to reduce the size. All Bonsai trees need appropriate amounts of fertilizers to grow nice and healthy. Be careful not to over water you Bonsai tree. Those who are new can begin with a common variety such as azalea, boxwood, hibiscus, camellia, or cotoneaster.

About basic bonsai styles

Bonsai, as a Japanese art form, is more regulated than it’s Chinese counterpart, the penjing. Bonsai attempts to achieve the ideal tree, while penjing attempts to reproduce nature. This is why perfect styling exists in bonsai if you obey the ‘rules’, while penjing leave you free to your creation. As a result these are the basic styles :

Broom (Hokidachi or Hoki-zukuri)

A very harmonious style, this form has branches that develop at a certain height, forming an upside broom. This styling is mainly achieved through a technique called the “V” cut. The trunk is chopped where you want the branch to start to develop and then a deep V cut is performed on the remaining trunk. This will induce buds to break near the cut. Zelkova serrata are notorious for this styling but maple and other deciduous species can easily be styled that way.

Formal Upright (Chokkan)

A tree styled the “chokkan” way has a straight trunk tapering graciously from bottom to top. The first and biggest branch is often situated at 1/3 of the desired height of the tree and is on the right or the left. The following branch is situated on the opposite side, while the third is in the back creating the perception depth. As we look at the branch structure from bottom to top, the branches are getting thinner, creating a pyramidal shape.

Informal Upright (Moyogi)

This style is very similar to the previously mentionned style as the same rules of design apply, however, the trunk is not straight but rather forms a sinuous shape while remaining tapered. This style is commonly used with conifers.

Slanting (Shakan)

Once again, this style is the same as the formal upright except that the trunk is leaning on one side. Branches are grown uniformly on the trunk like the formal/informal upright styles but the apex is tilted to the opposite side of the trunk giving a visual balanced effect.

Cascade (Kengai)

This styling requires an inclined trunk that is preferably at a 45 degree angle. The major portion of the foliage is below the pot line and sometimes goes beyond the pot itself. It often represents a tree growing on the side of cliff. A deep pot is used for this style.

Semi-cascade (Han-Kengai)

Similar to the Kengai style, this style also has an inclinated trunk. However, the foliage remains at the height of the pot line. In nature, we can see this style near a waterway, the foliage having grown on the side and leaning towards the water. While the cascade style uses a deeper pot, this style uses a medium depth pot.

Windswept (Fukinagashi)

A “windswept” tree represents a tree that has been growing in a certain shape due to natural elements . Often caused by strong wind, the trunk is always inclinated in a certain direction and all branches have grown on the same side.

Literati (Bunjin)

This styling is often represented in Japanese paintings. It is a tree with a tall and sinuous trunk. The foliage only grows near the summit of the tree. This styling is somewhat an exception to the rigorous rules of bonsai because it does not have specific rules. It represents what the bunjin movement is in Japan: the search for liberty.

Group/Forest (Yose-ue)

This styling often represents a forest or a small cluster of trees. It is supposed to be styled in a way that will clearly represent the growing habits of trees in a group. Many techinques can be used to achieve this styling and many perception techniques are used to create the illusion of a forest, or as Naka would say, “having the quality of the invisible beauty of nature”. To respect the Japanese art form, an odd number of trees is prefered for this styling.

Raft (Ikadabuki)

The same rules of the group planting apply to this style. However, all of the trunks emerge from one common trunk. This technique is often achieved with a branch placed verticaly in the soil. The roots form this branch and the upper part of the vertical branch develop secondary branches that will eventually become the trunks.

Multi-trunk Style (Sokan - Sankan)

This multi-trunk style has different possibilities. The first, which is called “Sokan”, consists of two trunks emerging from the same visible roots (nebari). The styling of the upper part of the tree must respect the same rules as the formal / informal upright styles previously described. Another variance consists of the same but with three trunks emerging from the visible roots. This is called “Sankan”. You can also have more than three trunks but to respect Japanese bonsai, it is prefered to have an odd number of trunks.

Roots Over Rock (Ishitsuki)

This styling has the specific charactreristics of having many visible roots growing over a rock and finding their way to the pot/soil.